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THE FUNDAMENTAL
PRINCIPLES OF WET SHAVING
SHAVING TECHNIQUE
1. Hot Water
The first essentials for a perfect
shave are water and warmth. When hair absorbs hot
water it becomes softer and easier to cut and with
warmth the skin and facial muscles become relaxed,
making shaving so much easier – thus the best
time to shave is after a bath or shower. This effect
can also be achieved by soaking a folded flannel or
small towel in hot water and wrapping it around the
face for thirty seconds or more.
2. Preparing the Face
Those who desire a particularly smooth
shave might wish to apply a glycerine-based Skin Food
before shaving: this protects the skin and helps the
razor to glide smoothly across the face. Massaging
the skin food against the growth of the beard also
helps to lift the beard in readiness for the lather.
3. The Lather
Trumper’s shaving cream may
be rubbed into the beard with the fingers, but the
best results are obtained when using a good quality
badger shaving brush. When using cream, place a modest
amount in the palm of one hand, dip the brush into
hot water and using a circular motion in the palm,
build up a rich creamy later on the brush. Wet the
face, and again with a circular motion apply the lather
to the beard, allowing the brush to lift the beard,
making the hairs stand proud. The brush may be dipped
lightly into hot water if more moisture is required
in the lather. If using soap, dip the brush in hot
water and use a similar circular motion on the soap
to create a rich lather.
4. The Shave
Using a good blade that has been warmed
in the sink or under hot running water, shave the
face in the direction of the beard growth, rinsing
the blade in hot water frequently. Never shave ‘against
the grain’ of the beard, in awkward areas such
as the chin and under the nose the blade can be taken
across the growth – but never against as this
pulls the skin in the wrong direction causing small
cuts and ‘grazing’ to the skin and is
the most common cause of ‘razor-burn’,
in-grown hairs and shaving rash. Rinse the face thouroughly
with warm then cool water and pat dry with a soft
towel.
5. Caring for the Skin
A good wet shave exfoliates and cleanses
the skin, leaving smooth new skin and a healthy clean
appearance. Newly exfoliated skin needs to be protected
from the elements, so for healthy skin it is important
that men use an after-shaving Moisturizer or Skin
Food. Products containing alcohol should not be applied
to the skin directly after shaving as this may inflame
the skin and cause dryness. For best results cologne
and other fragrances should be applied to the ‘hot
spots’ behind the earlobes and on the skin and
back of the neck.
TIPS TO GET YOU THE BEST POSSIBLE RESULT
General Shaving
Tips
- Shower or bathe before shaving,
or warm the face with a hot flannel.
- Use plenty of hot water and shave
in a warm environment.
- Protect the skin with skin food
or moisturizer.
- Use a quality badger brush with
good shaving cream or soap.
- Brush in a circular motion to lift
the beard.
- Shave with the beard growth, never
against the grain.
- Rinse the blade frequently in hot
water
- Rinse face well with warm then
cool water and gently pat dry.
- After shaving use a non-greasy
moisturizer or skin food.
- Avoid applying alcohol based products
to the face after shaving.
TAKING CARE OF YOUR BRUSH AND RAZOR
After shaving, rinse your brush and
razor thoroughly to remove soap and flick to remove
most of the water. Brushes are best hung on a brush
stand so that water can move away from the base of
the hairs. To avoid mildew, do not keep damp bushes
in a closed cupboard or washbag for any length of
time. If your brush becomes clogged with soap, soak
in a mild solution of borax until clean.
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